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This email was sent from a reader.  I figured it would be a good learning experience.  The answer that I give is my suggestion of what could be causing the problem, enjoy.

Hello,

After 2 days of working on my washer and researching for hours and hours online, I came upon your site and I was delighted to find someone who enjoys fixing washers on the side. It’s not a business for me, just a hobby to usually fix family or friends’ washers or dryers.

Someone in my area was giving away a Whirlpool Cabrio washer model WTW6600SB1 because they said it wouldn’t spin or agitate. Their repairman quoted them $300-400 so they just decided to get rid of it.. I saw it as a challenge, and if I can fix it, it will be way nicer and newer than my current machine.

I have run the diagnostic tests many times. The only errors stored are all F71 errors.

I took the inner tub and agitator out of the machine (which was very difficult at first) and completely cleaned the buildup. I did find a towel that was in between the inner and outer tubs on the bottom and removed it. I sanded the drive shaft which is not very smooth in one section. It is still a bit rough in a 2inch section but better than before.

I made sure the connectors were all secure on the control board as well as on the motor underneath.

These are all suggestions I found online that dealt with spin problems..

The automatic diagnostic tests now are fine until C8 where it seems to get stuck and not spin..just slightly turn while the agitator moves back and forth minimally.

When I run the manual diagnostic tests, everything works. All speeds of spin work fine, the agitator works fine, the lid lock works fine..

So, everything I read is that the sudsing error can also mean mechanical drive friction or that the basket does not engage properly during drain in order for it to spin.

I have tried to run 3 cycles and used a washing machine cleaner the 3rd time, and each time the machine flashes with an sd error.

I don’t think it has to do with suds at this point.

I’m sorry for being so long winded, but I am wondering with your expertise if you could give me any advice on what to do next? How do I get the basket to engage during drain?

I appreciate your time and thank you in advance.

Sincerely,

MH

Thanks for the email. I had one of these Cabrios that did nearly the same thing. In diagnostic mode it wouldn’t get passed C8 and then in regular spin cycle it would get stuck on about 12 minutes.

The tub has to be able to float up when the tub fills with water in order to agitate and then slide back down the shaft as that water is drained out in order to go into spin cycle. The issue that I experienced was the hub on the basket. The hub was a bit stiff, so it got stuck and wouldn’t allow the basket to drop. I haven’t wrote a post on that yet. The hub is a cheap part. I would try that first.  The hub is #8 on the diagram.

In your case, from what you are saying, I would think it is either the hub, or the drive shaft needs to be replaced, maybe both. You can get both from Appliance Parts Pros. They offer a 365 day warranty so if the parts don’t fix your problem you can return them. The only other thing that it could be is either the pressure switch is bad (control board) or there is a hole or gunk in the hose that runs to the pressure switch from the tub.

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Below is a list of error codes or cabrio fault codes for the Whirlpool Cabrio along with with explanations and recommended procedures. Over time I will interject some commentaries to help you better pinpoint the possible cause(s) to your problem cabrio fault code 5d. You can look up the mentioned tests in the Whirlpool Cabrio Service Manual.
Display (saved code)Explanation and recommended procedureExplanation and recommended procedureLong Fill
LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on OR water has disengaged
the basket but control does not detect a water level change.
Is water supply connected and turned on?Are hose screens plugged?Is water entering the tub? If so check pressure hose connection to machine/motor control.See TEST #2 in manualLong Drain
Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
Unbalanced Load
uL is displayed when the machine/motor control detects an off-balance load, and is steady on while the washer runs a
mini-cycle to rebalance the load.
Display clears if mini-cycle successfully rebalanced the load.If the mini-cycle is unsuccessful, uL will flash until the door lid is opened, allowing the customer to view and redistribute
the load.Overloaded
oL flashes when the machine/motor control detects a load size that exceeds the washer’s capacity.
Open the door lid to clear display, remove excess laundry, then restart the cycle.Suds Detection
Sd is displayed when the machine/motor control, by analyzing drag on the basket, detects a suds-lock condition, and is steady
on while the control then runs a mini-clean out cycle. If the clean out cycle is unable to correct the over-sudsing problem, the
cycle ends and Sd flashes in the display. This may signify:
Open/Close Door Lid
Lid flashes when the following conditions occur:
Pump Out (lid opened)
Po flashes when drain pump begins pumping out water from tub upon activation by the door lid having been left open for
more than 10 minutes.
Close door lid to stop drain pump.Hot, Cold Reversed
HC flashes when the hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed.
Make sure inlet hoses are connected correctly.Door Lock Failure
dL flashes if the following conditions occur:
Door lid is not closed completely due to interference.Wash media buildup is preventing the lock bolt from extending.Machine/motor control detects open door lid switch when attempting to lock.Machine/motor control cannot determine if door lid is in a locked state.
See TEST #8.
Door Unlock Failure
dU flashes if the following conditions occur: Excessive force on door lid is preventing lock bolt from retracting.Wash media buildup is preventing lock bolt from retracting.Machine/motor control cannot determine if door lid is in an unlocked state.
See TEST #8.
Keypad/User Interface Failure
F then 2 flashes when in: Diagnostics Test mode if a stuck key is detected.Standby mode if there is a user interface mismatch.
DISPLAY

(Saved Code) EXPLANATION AND RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE
See TEST #4.
ATC Thermistor Open/Short
F then 40 flashes when the ATC Thermistor is detected to be open or shorted. See TEST #5.
Motor RPS Thermistor Open/Short
F then 41 flashes when the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) thermistor is detected to be open or shorted.
See TEST #3

NOTE: This error code is only displayed when viewing saved fault codes. See Diagnostic Test for accessing saved fault codes.
Heater Thermistor Open/Short (Not Used)
F then 42 flashes when the heater thermistor is open or shorted.
Motor Stalled
F then 50 flashes when the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) senses no rotation. Does basket turn freely? If not, make sure bottom shipping pack has been removed. Determine cause of friction.If basket turns freely, see TEST #3.Motor RPS Failure
F then 51 flashes when there is a motor rotor position sensor (RPS) failure. See TEST #3.
Motor Stop Failure
F then 52 flashes when the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) senses rotation after stop command. See TEST #3.
Motor Control Overtemp
F then 53 flashes when the machine/motor control detects high temperature for the motor module.
Does basket turn freely? If not, determine cause of friction.If basket turns freely, see TEST #3.Motor Control Overcurrent
F then 54 flashes when the machine/motor control detects high current for the motor module. Does basket turn freely? If not, determine cause of friction.If basket turns freely, see TEST #3.Basket Re-engagement Failure
F then 72 flashes when the basket check routine fails to determine if the basket is re-engaged after being disengaged. Is the basket floating? If yes, pump out water. See Long Drain.Does basket turn freely? If not, determine cause of friction.

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